surf town

Day 44 - Nude Peaceful Zipolite

Chilling in the small coastal town of Zipolite at Casa Cabana

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

Christi and I did some follow up research the day before Zipolite to realize that we were only 3 miles from the town. With only backpacks and no taxis to be found we set off early in the morning with lots of water and Benny Bennasi jamming from our solar speaker out of our backpacks. We took the time on the walk to see more of the beautiful coast and talk about what we expect on our decision to move to Puerto Escondido. It became a long walk with the heat and walking what seemed like straight uphill at times. We came to a peak in the mountains where we finally had a full view of the town and became excited to finally see this beach town. Most things you see and read online about this town are all about Europeans visiting and the long stretch of beach for nudists. We entered town and randomly asked people if they know where Cabaña at Casa Acalli-Cafe Maya is located. After getting a supply of water and a cold beer at the mini-mart we were pointed in the right direction to Casa Cabana which was located almost right on the high tide line.

We were promptly greeted on the beach by an American lady who had owned the cabanas for over ten years. We were happy to be put up in a 2 story cabana which felt like a tree fort with windows overlooking both directions of the beach. The owner loved to talk about stories of the culture their, storms of the century, even personal family situations. Almost seemed like we had to interrupt her to just talk or leave the situation at times, nonetheless she was very nice. The day for very relaxing playing games and chilling on recliners watching the surf roll in. We only had the afternoon and the night because we had to catch the early bus out to Hualtuco in the morning. The day became late in the evening when people came out to surf and enjoy the last part of the day. We took a walk down the beach people watching and getting a feel of the beach scene. Their was a mellow sense of lifestyle in Zipolite just like we imagined. People were lying around naked on their bellies and backs, frisbees being tossed around, people selling arts and crafts for the hair and tattoos. It was unique and satisfying to see so much diverse but yet relaxed culture. We watched the surfers and boogey-boarders surf off the north end of the beach till the sunset crept down.

We decided to head back through the small downtown strip to look for another amazing taco stand or tacqueria and check the scene. We continued to see expats from all over the world on every street corner doing their own artistic work and/or trying to sell something of their creation. Their was also dogs wandering the street that had nowhere to go and nothing to do. We ended up at taco restaurant that had amazing smells coming out and looked somewhat busy. We ordered up 6 tacos and didn't realize that they had a 2 for 1 on Thursdays. The chef brought out two hugs plates with 12 tacos, we just started laughing and said "what the hell, lets eat!" 10 Minutes later the tacos were finished by us and dogs drooling all around us occasionally getting sprayed by a squirt gun from the owners. We dragged our bodies home to relax for the rest of the night and take in all the fun and excitement when had for one day...Not too mention get ready Hualtuco!

Day 30 to 31 - Solitude in Pavones

Off the map, to a tiny surf town on the south end of the Osa Peninsula.

Wednesday, March 30, 2016

We enjoyed our time in the small surf town of Dominical, but knew it wasn't the end all be all. Dominical was extremely hot, expensive, and the surf for the last couple of days was so so. It was time to hit the southern tip of Costa Rica, in a tiny little town, on the bottom of the Osa Peninsula, called Pavones. We knew we were in for a long drive that morning but had no idea we were about to go through rich amazing jungle to long road construction waits in the plains, and then a dirt road with our tiny clown car for almost two hours. Our GPS decided to take us on a long cut so disregarding the GPS we pursued to ask locals who never even heard of the town Pavones. We looked on the map for other towns nearby and continued asking the locals which directed us with finger pointing for about and hour.

We finally found a split in the road, one way Golfito; other way Pavones! It seemed like hours, but we finally made it to the smallest town off the beaten path so far. It a was beautiful setting, with longest left point-break on one side, and lush green jungle on the other. It was so small, we knew we had to find a room, before we were stuck homeless backtracking down the dirt road. We walked through the town, asking for places to stay for the night. After failing probably about 5 times, we found an Italian man named Alejandro, who owned a hotel called "La Dolfita", which had a pizzeria and small rooms. He said "no problem" for the night, and gave us a key to a single bedroom, patio with a hammock, including breakfast for $40...we were stoked!

We decided to walk the town, after getting situated in the room, and grab our much needed water and fruit. Everything, once again, was fairly expensive; considering it had to be imported all by truck. We decided to walk down to the surf break, and ran into our friends from the Green Forest (Jewish Alliance), in Uvita. We caught up with them, and they were happy to show us their beach-front restaurant/hostel, plus the many surfboards they brought down. I was getting very antsy after looking at their boards, and the waves peeling down the bottom of the point. So I ran back up, looking frantically for a board, and found a stoner dude who owned a hostel across from the pizzeria; he was happy to rent me a board for two days at $25. I grabbed the board and wax, and started running up the point. Not only surf after 30 days off celibacy, but to surf the 2nd longest left in the world with a growing south swell. The waves were insane, with minute long rides with a couple people of out; best session I've ever had in Costa Rica. The air and water (Air Temp: 90F Water Temp: 86F) was so hot, that I could only surf for an hour without getting dehydrated. We were happy to get off the beach, because of the heat, and settled down for the evening.

The next day we had our amazingly standard breakfast: eggs, rice, beans, and coffee. We took a short drive to the top of the point, to see more empty beaches, and visit the beautiful properties along the way; the coastline was so green and alive. It was truly an amazing place, but we had doubts about living accommodations here. After all, there were only 2 supermarkets, and random hostels spread throughout the town. It was, at minimum, an hour from any town town that would have hospitals, clothing, or anything in the middle.

I went back out for another surf session, with the growing swell and low tide barrels, while Christi decided to hit up her tan on the scorching beach. Once again, an hour later we were way too hot and dehydrated. We decided to jump in a river-mouth lagoon, which emptied into the point-break. We were quickly relieved, after jumping in to the cool water, shaded by a canopy of jungle while macaws flew overhead.

That night we wanted to hit the so-called "nightlife" of the town. The only thing open at night, was a small restaurant/bar, which played old surf films alongside 80's music videos. The bar was semi-filled with the locals/expats, and the out-of-towners that were just visiting for a couple days. I ordered my regular "Pilsen" beer, and C-Boo ordered the watermelon vodka, which was more of a smoothie then an alcohol drink.

We had many serious talks that night, about what we wanted from a place, and what Pavones had/didn't have. There were many great things about the place: lush year round jungles, good vibes from the community, cheap rent, and of course surfing (at least at that time). But, we also weighed out many cons as well; such as crazy bugs (day and night), scorching hot (day and night), minimalist town, and Christi's fear the evil crabs trying to break in every night (one actually broke in the last night we were there). We ranked Pavones to other places we had already visited; it was pretty high on the list, but not quite what we were looking for. So, we decided to pack up, to try the next place on the map.