Day 30 to 31 - Solitude in Pavones
Off the map, to a tiny surf town on the south end of the Osa Peninsula.
We enjoyed our time in the small surf town of Dominical, but knew it wasn't the end all be all. Dominical was extremely hot, expensive, and the surf for the last couple of days was so so. It was time to hit the southern tip of Costa Rica, in a tiny little town, on the bottom of the Osa Peninsula, called Pavones. We knew we were in for a long drive that morning but had no idea we were about to go through rich amazing jungle to long road construction waits in the plains, and then a dirt road with our tiny clown car for almost two hours. Our GPS decided to take us on a long cut so disregarding the GPS we pursued to ask locals who never even heard of the town Pavones. We looked on the map for other towns nearby and continued asking the locals which directed us with finger pointing for about and hour.
We finally found a split in the road, one way Golfito; other way Pavones! It seemed like hours, but we finally made it to the smallest town off the beaten path so far. It a was beautiful setting, with longest left point-break on one side, and lush green jungle on the other. It was so small, we knew we had to find a room, before we were stuck homeless backtracking down the dirt road. We walked through the town, asking for places to stay for the night. After failing probably about 5 times, we found an Italian man named Alejandro, who owned a hotel called "La Dolfita", which had a pizzeria and small rooms. He said "no problem" for the night, and gave us a key to a single bedroom, patio with a hammock, including breakfast for $40...we were stoked!
We decided to walk the town, after getting situated in the room, and grab our much needed water and fruit. Everything, once again, was fairly expensive; considering it had to be imported all by truck. We decided to walk down to the surf break, and ran into our friends from the Green Forest (Jewish Alliance), in Uvita. We caught up with them, and they were happy to show us their beach-front restaurant/hostel, plus the many surfboards they brought down. I was getting very antsy after looking at their boards, and the waves peeling down the bottom of the point. So I ran back up, looking frantically for a board, and found a stoner dude who owned a hostel across from the pizzeria; he was happy to rent me a board for two days at $25. I grabbed the board and wax, and started running up the point. Not only surf after 30 days off celibacy, but to surf the 2nd longest left in the world with a growing south swell. The waves were insane, with minute long rides with a couple people of out; best session I've ever had in Costa Rica. The air and water (Air Temp: 90F Water Temp: 86F) was so hot, that I could only surf for an hour without getting dehydrated. We were happy to get off the beach, because of the heat, and settled down for the evening.
The next day we had our amazingly standard breakfast: eggs, rice, beans, and coffee. We took a short drive to the top of the point, to see more empty beaches, and visit the beautiful properties along the way; the coastline was so green and alive. It was truly an amazing place, but we had doubts about living accommodations here. After all, there were only 2 supermarkets, and random hostels spread throughout the town. It was, at minimum, an hour from any town town that would have hospitals, clothing, or anything in the middle.
I went back out for another surf session, with the growing swell and low tide barrels, while Christi decided to hit up her tan on the scorching beach. Once again, an hour later we were way too hot and dehydrated. We decided to jump in a river-mouth lagoon, which emptied into the point-break. We were quickly relieved, after jumping in to the cool water, shaded by a canopy of jungle while macaws flew overhead.
That night we wanted to hit the so-called "nightlife" of the town. The only thing open at night, was a small restaurant/bar, which played old surf films alongside 80's music videos. The bar was semi-filled with the locals/expats, and the out-of-towners that were just visiting for a couple days. I ordered my regular "Pilsen" beer, and C-Boo ordered the watermelon vodka, which was more of a smoothie then an alcohol drink.
We had many serious talks that night, about what we wanted from a place, and what Pavones had/didn't have. There were many great things about the place: lush year round jungles, good vibes from the community, cheap rent, and of course surfing (at least at that time). But, we also weighed out many cons as well; such as crazy bugs (day and night), scorching hot (day and night), minimalist town, and Christi's fear the evil crabs trying to break in every night (one actually broke in the last night we were there). We ranked Pavones to other places we had already visited; it was pretty high on the list, but not quite what we were looking for. So, we decided to pack up, to try the next place on the map.